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Ups and downs of surfing

August 29, 2010

I’ve been reading a load of articles for my literature review about outdoor adventures and risk including, the aesthetics of surfing and the sociology of risk. It’s kind of ironic then that I’m not getting out much -that’s the realities of living in Invercargill (for surfing) and being busy with study and family.

Finally got out for a surf yesterday, the first time in about three months. Takes a 50 minute drive to get to Porridge from Invercargill and then a 15min walk unless you’ve got a set of keys for the gates. As we arrived at the break we saw a whale in the middle of the bay spouting.

I felt a bit apprehensive  going out given I hadn’t surfed in so long, it’s a spot I’m unfamiliar with and the last surfer was just getting out of the water. Crying kids not wanting you to go (my partner hung out with them first) also doesn’t help. So I guess it was no surprise I had a crap surf – although sometimes when you haven’t been out in ages you can have a great one. I was super unfit for paddling.

My partner told me not to beat myself up about it afterwards – that surfing takes time and commitment, something I’d also been reading about in the literature necessary in outdoor adventures. It was still a beautiful day out, a luxury for that spot not to be cold and windy, and the kids had a great time clambering over rocks and later paddling at Riverton beach.

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